"Cooling Sensation" Makeup Removers: Safe Concentrations and Skin-Feel Control for Menthol/Menthyl Lactate

I. "Cooling Sensation" Becomes the Differentiation Battlefield for Makeup Removers

In the highly homogenized category of makeup removers, a "cooling sensation" is becoming a crucial sensory differentiation dimension for brand owners to break through.

A bottle of makeup remover that provides a refreshing coolness while removing makeup resonates strongly with oily skin consumers, summer skincare scenarios, and post-workout quick cleansing groups. More and more brands are introducing cooling agents into makeup remover formulations to build richer sensory layers beyond "cleansing efficiency."

However, "cooling" is a sensory target that requires precise calibration—too little has no effect, too much becomes "stinging eyes"; choosing the wrong ingredient leads to sensitive skin complaints; ignoring regulations risks non-compliance in the EU or North American markets.

This is the core topic this article will systematically deconstruct.

II. The Biological Essence of Cooling Sensation: It's Not Really "Lowering the Temperature"

Before diving into ingredient selection, brand owners need to understand the neuroscientific basis of the "cooling sensation"—because this directly determines why different cooling agents differ qualitatively in user experience.

Low to moderate concentrations of menthol can activate TRPM8 (Transient Receptor Potential Melastatin 8) receptors in primary nociceptors (such as dorsal root and trigeminal ganglia), producing a cool feeling; whereas high concentrations of menthol may induce TRPM8 sensitization-mediated cold allodynia, and its paradoxical irritant characteristics are also related to the activation of TRPA1 receptors.

In simpler terms: menthol doesn't actually lower skin temperature; it tricks the cold receptors (TRPM8) in the skin into thinking the temperature has dropped, thus generating the perception of "coolness."

The threshold between "low" and "high" concentrations of menthol derived from animal experiments is approximately 10% (w/v)—below this concentration, it produces a pleasant cooling sensation; above it, it may trigger irritating cold pain.

This mechanism has an extremely important formulation implication: the dose-response curve of cooling agents is not linear. Above the optimal concentration range for comfortable cooling, continuing to increase the dosage will not bring stronger pleasure, but will cross the threshold to activate pain pathways, producing negative experiences like burning and stinging.

III. The Showdown of the Two Protagonists: Menthol vs. Menthyl Lactate

In cooling makeup remover formulations, the two most frequently discussed cooling ingredients are Menthol and Menthyl Lactate. Both produce a cooling sensation via the TRPM8 pathway, but they differ significantly in intensity, duration, irritation, and target audience:

Comparison Dimension	Menthol	Menthyl Lactate
INCI Name	Menthol	Menthyl Lactate
Cooling Intensity	Strong, instant, explosive	Mild, progressive, sustained
Duration	Short (5–10 mins)	Long (20–30 mins)
Skin Irritation	High at high concentrations, high mucosal contact risk	Low, sensitive-skin friendly
Odor Intensity	Strong minty odor, dominates product scent	Mild, doesn't mask other notes
Water Solubility	Slightly soluble, needs co-solvent	Insoluble, needs pre-dissolution in oil/alcohol phase
pH Stability	Average	Stable in pH 4–8
Recommended Dosage	Usually ≤0.5% in makeup removers	0.1%–2.0% (Typical 0.1%–0.5%)
Target Positioning	Strong cooling, sports series, men's products	Daily cooling, sensitive skin, caution near eye area

Menthyl Lactate provides a milder and longer-lasting cooling sensation than pure menthol; its mild odor also won't mask other desired notes in the formula, giving formulators more freedom in perfumery.

The recommended usage concentration for Menthyl Lactate is 0.5%–1%; its cooling effect is long-lasting, and due to the presence of the lactic acid moiety, its irritation to the skin is lower than menthol, making it more friendly to sensitive skin.

IV. Scientific Basis for Safe Concentrations: Recommended Dosage Ranges for Different Product Types

The safe concentration limits for cooling agents are constrained by both regulatory frameworks and skin physiology.

Menthol Safety Reference

Based on industry practice and safety data, here are the recommended concentration ranges for menthol in different product types (Note: This is an industry practice reference; specific limits must follow official regulations in the target market):

Product Type	Menthol Recommended Max Concentration	Notes
Rinse-off Makeup Remover	≤1.0%	Short contact time, relatively high tolerance
Leave-on Cleansing Water	≤0.5%	Avoid prolonged high-concentration skin contact
Eye-area Specific Makeup Remover	≤0.1% (Use with caution)	High mucosal contact risk; recommend substituting with Menthyl Lactate
Sensitive Skin Positioning	≤0.2% or substitute with Menthyl Lactate 0.1%–0.3%	-
Baby/Infant Products	Not recommended to add	Infants have highly sensitive TRPM8 receptors; risk of respiratory depression

Menthyl Lactate Safety Reference

Menthyl Lactate, as a white crystalline substance, is insoluble in water and stable in the pH 4–8 range; its application concentration range is 0.1%–2.0%, and it is a mildly cooling ingredient with fully validated safety in cosmetic formulations.

The optimal cooling compound formulation system corresponds to a ratio of about 1:5 for menthol to menthyl lactate, where menthol content is about 0.08%–0.1% w/w, and menthyl lactate content is about 0.5%—this ratio can achieve effective cooling while controlling the irritating side effects and strong minty odor caused by menthol.

V. Special Warning for the Eye Area: Risk Assessment of Cooling Agents in the Periorbital Region

When a cooling makeup remover is used in the eye area, special prudence is required. The irritation risk of menthol to the conjunctiva stems from two levels:

1. TRPA1 Irritation Pathway: At high concentrations, menthol not only activates cold TRPM8 receptors but also activates TRPA1 (pain/irritation receptors). On the highly sensitive contact interface of the eye mucosa, even moderate concentrations can cause stinging and tearing.

2. pH Mismatch Superposition Effect: If a makeup remover with high menthol concentration is also slightly acidic (e.g., oil-control formula pH 4.5–5.0), the gap with tear fluid pH 7.4 will further amplify eye irritation, superimposing with the irritant effect of the cooling agent.

VI. Regulatory Perspective: Key Compliance Points for EU, US, and Asian Markets

European Union (EU)

Menthol is listed as a restricted substance in Annex III of the EU Cosmetics Regulation (EC 1223/2009). In cosmetics other than oral hygiene products, menthol can be used as a fragrance ingredient but must meet IFRA standard limits and note fragrance allergen labeling obligations.

According to EU Regulation 2023/1545, the EU Cosmetics Regulation has now expanded the mandatory labeling list of fragrance allergens to 80 ingredients. When the allergen concentration exceeds 0.001% in leave-on products or 0.01% in rinse-off products, it must be listed individually in the ingredient list. Menthol belongs to the monitored aromatic components; brand owners must confirm whether the source essential oils contain additional allergenic components (like menthone) to avoid non-compliance issues from undeclared allergens. This requirement is mandatory for new products from July 31, 2026, and for existing products from July 31, 2028.

United States (MoCRA Framework)

Menthol is classified by the FDA as a Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS) cosmetic ingredient, and there are currently no federal maximum usage limits for topical cosmetics. However, brand owners must note: claims determine regulatory category—if the product claims "pain relief" or "relieving muscle discomfort," the menthol-containing makeup remover will be reclassified as an Over-The-Counter (OTC) Drug, facing a completely different registration and launch process.

China (NMPA)

Both menthol and menthyl lactate are compliant ingredients in China's Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients and can be normally used in cosmetic formulations. Note: Baby/infant products containing menthol must undergo special safety assessments and be explained in the formulation safety assessment report.

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Conclusion: Sensory Engineering is the Invisible Moat of Formulation Differentiation

In the category of makeup removers where ingredients are highly transparent and consumers are increasingly mature, "sensory experience" is becoming a differentiation barrier harder for competitors to quickly copy than the ingredient list.

A makeup remover with a perfectly calibrated cooling sensation—at the right concentration, for the right duration, facing the right target skin type—delivers a consumer experience that is the result of countless precise decisions made by formulation engineers at the molecular level.

 Deva Skincare, has accumulated rich experience in the formulation application of cooling sensory ingredients, is familiar with the concentration calibration, dissolution processes, and multi-market regulatory compliance requirements of menthol/menthyl lactate, and can provide brand owners with complete formulation support from sensory design to stability validation. If you are planning new cooling makeup removers, oil-control cleansing waters, or men's refreshing series, please feel free to connect deeply with our formulation team.