The "All-in-One" Makeup Remover: Formulation Feasibility and Claim Boundaries for Makeup Removal + Cleansing + Toning

I. "One Bottle Replaces Three Steps" — Market Demand Has Proven Feasibility

The wave of Skinimalism has led consumers to re-evaluate the value of every step in their skincare routine. Using a makeup remover before cleansing, cleansing again, and then applying toner—three independent steps—means three times the cost, three times the time, and three times the packaging waste for modern consumers pursuing efficiency and portability.

The product concept of "all-in-one makeup removers" is rapidly gaining heat against this backdrop.

The global makeup remover market was valued at $1.6 billion in 2025 and is projected to reach $2.1 billion by 2032, at a CAGR of 4.0%. Market research explicitly points out that the demand for multifunctional makeup removal products that can simultaneously act as toners, soothing mists, or brightening care is continuously expanding, making makeup removers indispensable in modern skincare routines. This is the most direct market validation of the "all-in-one" trend by the industry.

In 2025, approximately 47% of new makeup removal products integrated additional skincare benefits such as hydration, barrier protection, and nourishment. Multifunctional product innovation is strengthening market positioning; consumers are shifting towards makeup removers, oil-based cleansers, and reusable cotton pads that offer skincare benefits, elevating skin barrier protection to a core consideration.

But "feasible" does not mean "boundless." Formulation engineers and brand owners must clearly recognize: turning three steps into one is a high-difficulty challenge in formulation design, and a high-risk zone in claim management.

II. The Three Formulation Contradictions of "All-in-One"

Contradiction 1: Makeup Removal Efficiency vs. Skin Residue Safety

The core function of a makeup remover is to "dissolve and remove makeup," relying on surfactants to form micelles that encapsulate makeup oils and dirt. However, if the product also claims "toning" efficacy, its design logic requires leaving functional ingredients (humectants, actives) on the skin—which directly conflicts with the core cleansing logic of "efficiently clearing residues."

The formulation strategy to resolve this contradiction is to design layered "instant cleansing phases" and "leave-on skincare phases":

• Using micellar surfactants (above CMC concentration) to dissolve and encapsulate makeup.

• Using low-molecular-weight hydrating actives (such as low-MW Sodium Hyaluronate, Panthenol) as leave-on ingredients, which can still partially penetrate the stratum corneum after cotton pad wiping.

The feasibility of this strategy is corroborated by commercial examples. COSRX's Low pH Niacinamide Micellar Cleansing Water features a formulation system of: Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate (primary surfactant) + Panthenol + Sodium Hyaluronate + Madecassoside + Niacinamide 1000ppm + Zinc PCA, buffered to a low pH with Citric Acid / Sodium Citrate. It simultaneously offers four effects: "makeup removal + cleansing + hydration + soothing," requiring no rinsing and suitable for one-step cleansing of daily sunscreen and light-to-moderate makeup. It has gained widespread market recognition, including among sensitive skin consumers.

Contradiction 2: Cleansing Degreasing Power vs. Toning Hydration Function

Traditional cleansers require strong sebum-removing capabilities to clear excess sebum and residual dirt on the stratum corneum surface—this usually requires higher concentrations of anionic surfactants (such as Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate or SLS systems). Toners, on the other hand, tend to be mild, zero-irritation, focusing primarily on hydration and pH balance.

There is an essential contradiction between the surfactant concentration requirements and irritation boundaries of the two: the surfactant concentration that can effectively remove sebum often destroys the skin's NMF (Natural Moisturizing Factor), causing tightness; while a surfactant concentration insufficient for cleansing cannot truly fulfill the cleansing function.

The practical solution to this contradiction is to downgrade the efficacy claim: clearly position the product as a "light daily cleansing and makeup removal water," rather than a full substitute for facial cleansers—that is, targeting the one-step cleansing needs of light makeup and daily sunscreen, rather than the deep cleansing scenarios of heavy or long-lasting makeup.

It is worth noting that traditional cognition holds that cleansers and toners cannot be completely interchangeable—cleansers can clean the face, but because they are not specifically designed for makeup removal, they may not achieve the removal effects of makeup removers; toners are used to cleanse the skin and balance pH, usually as an auxiliary step after makeup removal. This basic industry cognition is a boundary that brand owners must seriously examine when designing multi-effect claims.

Contradiction 3: pH Compatibility — The Conflict Between Toning Ingredients and Cleansing Systems

The design pH range for mainstream cleansers on the market is 4.5–6.5, to match the skin's physiological acidity and ensure the stability of cleansing effects.

However, the optimal working pH for different functional ingredients varies:

• Niacinamide: Optimal pH 5.0–7.0; under highly acidic conditions (pH<5), it accelerates hydrolysis into niacin, triggering flushing risks.

• Panthenol: Stable within pH 5.0–7.5.

• Low-MW Sodium Hyaluronate: Stable within pH 5.0–8.0.

• Salicylic Acid (if used for oil-control formulas): Needs pH 3.0–4.0 to effectively penetrate the stratum corneum, which conflicts with the stability ranges of the above actives.

Recommended pH design for 3-in-1 formulas: Lock the formulation pH in the overlapping stable range of 5.5–6.5, precisely controlled with a Citric Acid / Sodium Citrate buffer system, while avoiding active ingredients that require extreme pH to exert efficacy (such as high-concentration salicylic acid, AHAs).

III. Feasible "Three-Effect" Active Ingredient Selection Framework

After clarifying the three formulation contradictions, below is a multi-effect active ingredient combination scheme that has been validated by market products:

Efficacy Dimension	Recommended Ingredient	INCI Name	Recommended Dosage	Formulation Compatibility
Makeup Removal (Core Surfactant)	Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate	Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate	1–3%	Mild, suitable for the eye area.
Cleansing (Synergistic)	Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate	Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate	0.5–1%	Amino acid surfactant, suitable for low pH.
Hydration (Leave-on)	Panthenol	Panthenol	0.5%	Excellent, wide pH stability.
Hydration (Leave-on)	Low-MW Sodium Hyaluronate	Sodium Hyaluronate (LMW)	0.03–0.05%	Excellent.
pH Balance / Toning	Citric Acid / Sodium Citrate Buffer	Citric Acid / Sodium Citrate	Total 0.2–0.4%	Natural buffer, stable.
Soothing / Toning	Allantoin	Allantoin	0.2–0.5%	Excellent.
Brightening / Multi-Effect	Niacinamide	Niacinamide	0.1% (1000ppm)	Must be controlled at ≤2% to avoid pH<4.
Oil-Control / Multi-Effect	Zinc PCA	Zinc PCA	0.5–1%	Synergistic effect when compounded with niacinamide.
Antioxidant	Madecassoside	Madecassoside	0.1–0.2%	Mild, COSMOS compatible.

IV. Claim Boundaries: What Can Be Said and What Must Be Handled with Caution

The claim design for all-in-one products is the most legally compliance-conscious part of the entire project.

Compliant Claim Directions That Can Be Used

① Descriptive Claims (Low Risk)

• "Effortlessly removes makeup in one step, no secondary cleansing needed" (Usage scenario claim, no efficacy promise).

• "Infused with niacinamide, brightening care proceeds simultaneously" (Factual statement of ingredient presence).

• "Hydrates while removing makeup, no tightness after use" (Reasonable inference based on ingredient mechanism, must be supported by ingredients).

② Test-Supported Efficacy Claims (Medium Risk, Requires Substantiation)

• "Skin hydration increased by X% after makeup removal" (Requires TEWL / Corneometer test report support).

• "Dermatologist Tested" (Requires HRIPT or CIT test report support).

• "Low pH gentle formula, maintains skin's natural acidic protection" (Requires pH measurement data + dermatological endorsement).

High-Risk Claims That Must Be Handled with Caution

Modern toners have evolved into multi-functional solutions that can address various skin needs such as hydration, pH balance, exfoliation, and barrier support. If a brand uses "makeup remover completely replaces toner" as a core claim, it requires sufficient efficacy validation evidence; otherwise, it faces high risks at both the consumer cognition and regulatory review levels.

• "Completely replaces the three-step skincare routine": Requires proof that the product's efficacy is equivalent to the combined effect of independent makeup remover + cleanser + toner; substantiation costs are extremely high.

• "Deeply cleanses pores": Usually requires specialized test reports, and there is a perceptual contradiction with "gentle and non-irritating."

• "Whitening / Brightening" (In China and some ASEAN markets): Special efficacy category, requires special registration or filing, and the claim threshold is extremely high.

V. Multi-Effect Claim Regulatory Comparison Across Markets

Market	Regulatory Framework	Special Notes for Multi-Effect Claims
China	NMPA Specification for Cosmetics Claim Substantiation (2021)	"Anti-acne", "Whitening", "Anti-hair-loss" are special efficacy; "Oil-control", "Hydration" are general efficacy, summaries must be uploaded; multi-functional products must substantiate each efficacy claim separately.
European Union	EU No 655/2013 Common Criteria for Claims	Every efficacy claim must be supported by scientific evidence; Green Claims Directive enforced in 2026; exaggerating the "stacking" effect of any single efficacy is prohibited.
United States	FTC Act + MoCRA	FDA does not define "3-in-1"; FTC requires all efficacy claims to have "Competent and Reliable Scientific Evidence"; drug/cosmetic definition risks must be avoided.
Southeast Asia	ASEAN Cosmetic Directive	Refers to EU standards; enforcement intensity varies by member state; Thailand and the Philippines conduct extra reviews for brightening claims.

VI. Brand Tiered Positioning Strategy: Not Every Market is Suitable for "All-Effect Claims"

The commercialization path for all-in-one products is recommended to be tiered according to the target market:

• Entry Tier (Mass Market): Use "makeup removal + no tightness" as the core claim, add humectants but do not amplify additional efficacy, reducing substantiation costs and entering the market quickly.

• Mid Tier (Boutique DTC Brands): Add efficacy ingredients like niacinamide/madecassoside, using "skincare while removing makeup" as a differentiated selling point, supported by TEWL testing + usage sensory evaluation reports to support the "skincare-type makeup removal" positioning.

• Premium Tier (Professional Skincare Brands): Collaborate with dermatologists to conduct clinical validation, obtain HRIPT, Corneometer tests, and dermatological opinion letters, fully supporting high-value claims of "3-in-1," matching high average order values.

The global facial cleanser and toner market was valued at $7.37 billion in 2025 and is projected to reach $9.43 billion by 2032, at a CAGR of 3.6%; over 58% of consumers include cleansers and toners in their daily skincare routines, and the demand for dual-function products is highly robust, providing a clear market entry opportunity for "all-in-one" makeup removers.

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