The Formulation Logic of "Moisturizing Makeup Removers": How to Maintain Skin Hydration While Cleansing?

I. The Cleansing Paradox: Why Does "Washing Your Face" Make Skin Drier?

Every evening after removing makeup, the sensation consumers experience—that feeling of "skin tightness, dryness, even mild stinging"—is not coincidental. It is a structural deficiency inherent in almost all traditional makeup removers.

The root of this problem lies in a physicochemical reality: surfactants (the core functional ingredient in makeup removers), while removing makeup oils and dirt, inevitably strip away the skin's surface natural lipids and Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF)—the latter being a group of key molecules in the stratum corneum responsible for retaining water, including free amino acids, lactic acid, urea, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA), and others.

When stratum corneum lipids are stripped by surfactants, it leads to increased TEWL (Transepidermal Water Loss), post-wash skin tightness, dryness, erythema, xerosis, skin cracking, and reduced elasticity and extensibility of healthy skin. Therefore, when screening surfactants for skin cleansers, formulation engineers must simultaneously consider strategies for replenishing the water and lipids lost during the cleansing process.

The formulation logic of "moisturizing makeup removers" is precisely a systematic answer to this structural problem.

II. The Data Speaks: The Market Weight of Moisturizing Efficacy in the Makeup Remover Category

This is not just a skin science issue—it is a structural market trend reshaping consumer purchase decisions.

One of the most significant skincare trends in 2024–2025 is the fusion of "hydration claims" with "barrier repair claims." Products are increasingly being tested to simultaneously achieve dual effects of stratum corneum hydration (skin water content measurement) and barrier strengthening (TEWL reduction). New product launches with "skin barrier" claims grew by over 200% between 2020–2025 (Mintel data), and combined hydration + barrier testing protocols have now become the standard procedure at leading cosmetic R&D institutions.

Approximately 63% of global consumers actively seek dual-effect products that simultaneously achieve cleansing and hydration; about 74% list skincare efficacy as the primary criterion for purchasing liquid makeup removers; about 69% prefer makeup removers containing natural ingredients.

Consumers have clearly voted with their purchasing behavior: they are unwilling to compromise between "removing makeup thoroughly" and "not harming the skin."

III. The First Checkpoint in Formulation: Surfactant Selection Determines the Starting Point of "Damage"

Before discussing how to "replenish" moisturizing ingredients, one must first control the degree to which cleansing ingredients damage the skin's moisture at the source. This is the most easily overlooked yet most important step in formulating moisturizing makeup removers.

The Problem with High-Irritation Surfactants

Sulfate surfactants (such as SLS, SLES) are strong ionic surfactants that, while effectively removing oils and dirt, strip the skin's natural oils, potentially triggering irritation, dryness, or exacerbating conditions like eczema and rosacea.

This means: even if a makeup remover formula is loaded with moisturizing ingredients, if the core surfactant system is destructive to the skin barrier, the addition of moisturizing ingredients is merely "repairing while destroying"—treating the symptom, not the cause.

Gentle Surfactant Systems: The Preferred Framework for Moisturizing Makeup Removers

Surfactant Type	Representative Ingredients (INCI)	Impact on Skin Barrier	Suitability for Moisturizing Makeup Removers
Non-ionic	Poloxamer 184, Decyl Glucoside, PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides	Low—no charge, does not interfere with skin lipid arrangement	✅ Preferred
Amphoteric	Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate	Low-Medium—close to neutral at physiological pH	✅ Good
Amino Acid-Based	Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate, Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate	Low—mimics skin's natural amino acid structure	✅ Excellent
Glucoside-Based	Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Lauryl Glucoside	Low—plant-based, biodegradable, barrier-friendly	✅ Good
Strong Anionic	SLS, SLES	High—protein denaturation, lipid stripping	❌ Not Suitable

Non-ionic surfactants (such as Decyl Glucoside), due to carrying no charge, do not interfere with the skin barrier or cause irritation during cleansing. They maintain the skin's moisture barrier while removing dirt and oils, making them an ideal choice for dry and sensitive skin.

IV. The Three-Layer Architecture of Moisturizing Ingredients: Component Design Logic for Hydrating Makeup Removers

After understanding barrier protection from the cleansing side, the next step is the proactive supplementation strategy for moisturizing ingredients. An excellent moisturizing makeup remover should design its moisturizing components in a synergistic three-layer structure of "Humectants → Emollients → Barrier Mimetics," rather than simply "adding glycerin."

Layer 1: Humectants — "Drawing" Water from the Environment and Deep Skin to the Stratum Corneum

Humectants are the core of the moisturizing system, responsible for actively attracting and binding water molecules to increase stratum corneum water content.

Hyaluronic Acid / Sodium Hyaluronate

Hyaluronic acid can absorb up to 6 liters of water per gram. It possesses multifunctional properties, can regulate cellular immunity, modulate epidermal cell interactions, and integrate into the extracellular matrix. A randomized, evaluator-blinded trial showed that a single application of a glycerin and hyaluronic acid combination product significantly improved skin hydration and barrier function within 24 hours, with TEWL decreasing at test sites and post-stripping TEWL reductions observed at 1 hour, 8 hours, and 24 hours.

In moisturizing makeup removers, the molecular weight selection of hyaluronic acid is particularly crucial:

• High-Molecular-Weight HA (>1,000 kDa): Forms a hydrating film on the skin surface, locking in surface moisture, providing an instant plump skin feel.

• Low-Molecular-Weight HA / Oligomeric HA (<50 kDa): Can penetrate deeper into the stratum corneum, extending the duration of hydration.

• Combination use of both is the mainstream technical direction for hydrating formulations in 2026.

Formulators have moved beyond standard high-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid. Core innovations include: cross-linked HA (longer skin residence time, better film-forming properties); low-molecular-weight HA fragments (oligomeric HA) (deeper stratum corneum penetration, potentially reaching the viable epidermis); postbiotic actives (lysates, fermentation derivatives) (barrier support + hydration effects, with significant growth trajectory).

Recommended dosage in moisturizing makeup removers: 0.1%–1.0% (multi-molecular weight compound system)

Glycerin

As a natural humectant, glycerin protects the stratum corneum barrier and improves skin texture by softening the stratum corneum and causing superficial corneocytes to shrink and smooth.

Glycerin is the most mature and cost-effective moisturizing ingredient in makeup removers. At approximately 5% usage, it can significantly increase post-cleansing skin water content without adding formulation stickiness.

Recommended dosage: 3%–8% (adjusted according to target skin feel; too high produces stickiness)

Panthenol (D-Panthenol / Provitamin B5)

D-Panthenol, as a moisturizing ingredient, can attract water into the outer layer of the skin and lock it in, making the skin feel plump, silky, and elastic. It simultaneously supports lipid synthesis in the epidermis, helping to rebuild and strengthen the skin's natural barrier, reduce TEWL, and enable the skin to maintain hydration and resist environmental stressors.

Panthenol's special value lies in its "dual-effect hydration": it is both a humectant (introducing moisture) and an emollient (stabilizing moisture); it also possesses soothing and skin regeneration-promoting properties, making it a priority choice for moisturizing makeup removers that balance hydration and repair sensations.

Recommended dosage: 0.5%–2%

Sodium PCA (Sodium Pyrrolidone Carboxylate)

Sodium PCA is a natural component of the skin's NMF, mimicking the skin's own moisturizing mechanism with excellent water-attracting and retaining effects, especially suitable for products positioned as "biomimetic hydration." Recommended dosage: 1%–3%

Layer 2: Emollients — Filling Crevices, Improving Skin Feel

In the water-phase-dominant system of makeup removers, the dosage of emollients is usually limited (to maintain a refreshing texture), but appropriately introducing lightweight emollient ingredients is crucial for maintaining post-cleansing skin softness.

• Squalane: Sebum-biomimetic structure, lightweight and non-greasy, can improve post-cleansing dryness at very low addition levels (1%–3%).

• Glycerides (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride): Lightweight esters with high skin acceptance, assisting in maintaining stratum corneum lipids.

The ratio between humectants and emollients is critical: too many humectants without enough emollients provides short-lived hydration that quickly disappears as water evaporates; too many emollients without enough humectants may feel protective but doesn't truly increase skin water content. Generally, a 1:1 to 1:2 humectant-to-emollient ratio is suitable for balanced formulations.

In makeup remover formulations, since the product is overall water-phase-dominant and needs to maintain refreshing fluidity, emollient usage is typically controlled within 1%–5% of the total formula.

Layer 3: Barrier Mimetics — Repairing Post-Cleansing Barrier Gaps

This layer is the core difference that truly distinguishes "ordinary makeup removers" from "moisturizing makeup removers."

Ceramides

Two interventional studies on adult patients with moderate-to-severe atopic dermatitis confirmed the efficacy of ceramide-containing moisturizers in barrier repair: compared to placebo, ceramide-containing formulations significantly reduced TEWL, enhanced skin hydration, and improved patient-reported outcomes. A multicenter study involving 312 patients (109 with atopic dermatitis) showed that a 4-week ceramide-enriched care regimen reduced SCORAD scores by 61.2% and improved quality of life by 67.2%.

Technical challenges of introducing ceramides in makeup remover formulations: Ceramides are naturally lipophilic and not easily dispersed in the water-phase-dominant makeup remover system. Solutions include:

• Using Ceramide Complex Pre-dispersions, water-dispersible complexes provided by suppliers that can be directly added to the water phase.

• Selecting plant-based ceramide derivatives (such as wheat-derived or brown rice-derived ceramides) with better water solubility.

Allantoin

Allantoin possesses dual moisturizing and cell renewal-promoting properties. Adding 0.1%–0.5% in makeup removers can effectively counteract mild skin irritation from the makeup removal step and promote the repair and healing of damaged stratum corneum, making it an essential ingredient for sensitive-skin moisturizing makeup removers.

V. Validating "Hydration": How to Support Claims with Data?

In the 2026 consumer market, merely claiming "moisturizing" based on the ingredient list is no longer sufficient—consumers and channel buyers increasingly expect to see real efficacy data. The following are commonly used efficacy validation test methods for moisturizing makeup removers:

1. Skin Moisture Content Measurement (Corneometry)

Using a skin moisture meter (such as Corneometer CM825) to evaluate changes in stratum corneum water content before and after product use is the most direct hydration efficacy validation indicator.

2. TEWL (Transepidermal Water Loss) Measurement

Using an evaporimeter (Tewameter) to evaluate changes in skin barrier integrity before and after cleansing directly reflects whether the product causes barrier damage. Clinical evidence supports the efficacy of ceramide-led formulations in improving hydration and reducing TEWL, with research reports showing TEWL reductions of approximately 10% and hydration improvements lasting up to 72 hours.

3. Consumer Sensory Panel

Evaluating sensory indicators such as post-cleansing "tightness," "comfort," and "hydration feel" through subject subjective scoring, complementing instrument data to constitute a complete efficacy evidence chain.

VI. Differentiated Formulation Strategies for Moisturizing Makeup Removers by Skin Type

Target Skin Type	Core Hydration Strategy	Special Adjustment Direction
Dry / Dehydrated	High-concentration glycerin (6%–8%) + Multi-MW HA + Squalane 2%	Appropriately increase emollient ratio; consider adding Lactic Acid (0.5%) to assist NMF repair
Sensitive / Barrier-Damaged	Panthenol 2% + Ceramide complex + Allantoin 0.3%	Avoid any potentially irritating ingredients; pH strictly controlled at 5.5–6.5; fragrance-free, alcohol-free
Oily / Combination	HA-dominant (reduce glycerin to below 3%) + Sodium PCA	Avoid greasy feel; pair with Niacinamide 2%–3% for sebum regulation
Mature / Anti-Aging	Multi-MW HA + Cross-linked HA + Panthenol + Collagen amino acids	Focus on extending hydration duration; appropriately add peptides (e.g., Palmitoyl Pentapeptide) for reinforcement

Are you looking for a reliable Skincare factory?

Are you seeking a trusted partner to launch or scale your skin care line? At Deva Skincare,we specialize in developing safe formulations that combine barrier science with clean, compliant manufacturing.

Our R&D team and certified production facilities deliver turnkey OEM/ODM solutions tailored to your target market’s regulatory and consumer expectations.

By collaborating with Deva Skincare, you gain access to industry-leading expertise and innovative formulations that set your brand apart in the competitive global market. Contact us today to discover how we can help you succeed.

Conclusion: The Ultimate Value Reconstruction of Makeup Removers — Making Cleansing the Beginning of Hydration

A truly moisturizing makeup remover is not a simple superposition of "adding glycerin" to a traditional makeup remover. It is a full-chain reconstruction from surfactant system selection, three-layer moisturizing ingredient architecture design, to pH management and efficacy validation.

It represents a shift in product philosophy: the cleansing step is no longer the "necessary evil" of the skincare routine, but a precious opportunity to proactively hydrate the skin, repair the barrier, and lay the foundation for subsequent moisturizing skincare steps.